Loch Ailort looking out to ArdnamurchanThis is what started the project. Quite a few Greenland paddles appeared on club outings. First I made one of spruce 1048 gm, followed by one of cedar 782 gm. Compare these with my carbon fibre split (Adventure Technology Quest) 880 gm and a conventional (Palm Drift Pro) split 1243 gmStarted by making up a coaming jig using 22mm flooring chipboard.Made the nose of the jig by turning a circle from a bit of joist.Copied the dimensions from my Zegul kayak, much the same as in Brian’s video.Drain pipe for soaking coaming – used some elm Steam bending tube lagged with building joint insulation and parcel tape.First go at bending, nice soft elm but very twisted grain and burrs.Getting rid of some of the twists while the wood is still damp.
The build starts
Pine gunwhales being compared for bendPlaning the gunwhalesScarfing the Western Red Cedar keel and stringersBending the deck beams; I overdid it with the Gorilla glue!Delux Steam box with insulation rescued from a skipSteam box with insulationRouting rib mortises with fence – too shoogly!Routing rib mortises with jig – much easierCut ribs on the band saw, then through the thicknesser. All my tools are metric so even the slide rule , last used in the 70’s came out; and the callipers are graduated in “thou”!Smoothing the edges of the ribs, the grooved jig is screwed to the bench.Nice to see the deck taking shape.Cutting mortises
Impossible to get dowel of this size locally so it’s a DIY job on the lathe!
Tidying up the dowel ends.
Shortening an elm cockpit, Split the glue joint Then Soaked the ends
Soaked ends ready to go in the steam box
Loose ends jammed in the steam box
ribs, soaked and ready for steaming, note test pieces underneath
ribs, soaked and ready for steaming
Rib steaming in progress. the first 4 ribs all cracked even after 3 goes!
repairing cracks in ribs, gorrilla glue and duct tape
Bow for marking curves made of masking tape and a thin lath
Ready for the keel
Stem and stern clamped in place to check fit and mark for lacing holes
Well done Paul, looks like the Elm has bent nicely, was it green or had it been dried? It’ll be good to see your progress. You’re in a good place to launch and get some superb trips. Best wishes,
Chris.
That looks like good progress, by the way, it appears that you’ve had to saw the deck beam free from the jig. I prevented this by putting a plastic sheet, with holes for the pegs (i just cut ‘x’s in the plastic), over the board to stop glue adhering to it. It was just a sheet of thin stuff, large plastic bag really, a bin bag would do.
How has the cockpit worked out? I have some oak left over for both the coaming and added rim that you could have if you need it.
Shortening an elm cockpit,
Soaked ends ready to go in the steam box
Loose ends jammed in the steam box
ribs, soaked and ready for steaming, note test pieces underneath
ribs, soaked and ready for steaming
Rib steaming in progress. the first 4 ribs all cracked even after 3 goes!
repairing cracks in ribs, gorrilla glue and duct tape
Bow for marking curves made of masking tape and a thin lath
Ready for the keel
Stem and stern clamped in place to check fit and mark for lacing holes
Stem
Stern
November 29, 2020
Well done Paul, looks like the Elm has bent nicely, was it green or had it been dried? It’ll be good to see your progress. You’re in a good place to launch and get some superb trips. Best wishes,
Chris.
December 5, 2020
That looks like good progress, by the way, it appears that you’ve had to saw the deck beam free from the jig. I prevented this by putting a plastic sheet, with holes for the pegs (i just cut ‘x’s in the plastic), over the board to stop glue adhering to it. It was just a sheet of thin stuff, large plastic bag really, a bin bag would do.
How has the cockpit worked out? I have some oak left over for both the coaming and added rim that you could have if you need it.