Nov. 2020: 66 Canoe: 16″ length: 35″ beam, 1.5″ rocker, tandem
*July 2021 paddling update: Canoe paddles great. Solid, fast, easy to turn yet tracks nicely. Made sure to make ribs at center very flat, which helped.
Two paddlers got canoe moving fast this morning. The final canoe weight is much more than expected from material choices used during build. We had over 400lbs inside and it performed gracefully. Motor boat chop was a breeze from the sides and bow. No issues.
Removable dolly wheels lashed to stern underside makes rolling to beach, easy. Next canoe will have adjustable seats for paddler weight distribution and handling. Would build again.
Gunwales: laminated pine
Ribs: white cedar
Miscellaneous wood, included.
Used a generous amount of Titebond III for gunwales. Let dry for 2 days. Temperature controlled room. Worked fine. Chisled out mortises by hand, again. Kind of relaxing. Not pretty but boat will still float. Misc. pics of prep work.
Stems and spreaders next…
Finished ribbing (white cedar) and started adding stringers with zip ties. Bending ribs is an artform it seams. Not easy. Soaked ribs for a few days and added 1/2 cup fabric softener to the water to help soften the wood fibers. Then boiled several ribs at a time in a 4″ pvc pipe for around 7 minutes. Everything smelled great. 1 large pot of water filled the pipe up and would stay super hot to do around 10 ribs. Then, had to dump the cooler water and boil more, etc.
Used a metal clamp and towel to keep the ribs from floating upwards while boiling, towel kept the heat in. Worked fine. Had to re-boil and re-bend many ribs they were incorrectly shaped the first try – TOO round.
Trying to paint a faux birchbark pattern on interior of hull. Using polyester fabric, 9 oz. Trick is to not make it look a like a pattern but more random. (Interior fabric shown drying on exterior of canoe at the moment in pic.)
Wanted a very flat bottom canoe. This one seems like it will be fine. Felt like I added 1/4 pound of shims to the canoe while tying on the stringers. Lots of gaps. Installed a couple temporary spacers on top until the seats go in. Designed some very recurved stems and placed first and last rib around 18 inches back from stems. Beefed up the center gunnels at midpoint with wood to be able to mortise in my center thwart. Worked ok.
Next: making from scratch contoured laminated seats with webbing.
Made some seat mounts. Added pegs for security. Titebond III glue.
Up next: contoured seats are shaped and drying on 2×4 forms. Used 1/4″ stock from store and power planed down a bit in bent section. Presoaked laminations, boiled and bent via pvc pipe.
Mortise and tenon joinery. Will be assembling seats with 2″ webbing soon. Total cost for 2 seats, around $40.00. Time: 3-days. Left the webbing in it’s packaging and will use as a dispenser. Will use a hot knife for cutting to length. Seats are 10×15″ in usable webbed area. Webbing will be stapled on the bottom and also stapled around cross piece bottom/sides, 1/4″.
Seats turned out a little wide at 15″ webbed area. Will have to install stern seat a little further towards canoe center than would like. Drum tight, though. Not bad for $20 each.
My birchbark interior hull design turned out more like camouflage. Polyester fabric is a different animal to sew on. Keep getting wrinkles in the middle/sides of canoe.
Ready for exterior waterproofing.
Trying the 2-part urethane system instead of oil-based enamel. Will be doing a custom design. A little bit experimental, not with the chemistry but where it’s used on the hull. We shall see.
Added a few darts on the sides for an effect and certain look.
Done. Great course Brian, Liz and team.
Looking forward to first paddle. Canoe turned into more of a sturgeon nose. Could have made stems bigger. Should be good at tracking…
*Post build update: added more height to the bow/stern with cedar risers. Will shape and leave unfinished.