I started (late 2019) with the construction of an LPB. Building was a fun and educational process. Thanks to Brain Schulz’s help and the detailed directions in his video course, I was able to build the kayak without any problems. I got the hang of it, and there was an opportunity to make a second kayak, a Greenland kayak this time. I was still doubting between a West and an East Greenland kayak. I chose the latter because it looks the slickest: long and slender, low on the water, and nice lines on the deck.
First I show a few photos of the result, then the photos of the construction of the kayak. Usually with a short explanation and sometimes with a longer one.
Sawing the wood is still quite a lot of work, but now all parts of the kit are ready. 
The spreaders are in place. The first step has been taken 
And now the second step: the deck beams.
If the lumber yard is a few miles away, you’ll have to figure something out to get the oak beam to the workshop when you have no car available. It worked fine with the help of a canoe cart behind my bike. 
Enough wood for two coamings. Also gives the opportunity to choose the best one. 
I glued the edge of the coaming to make sure everything is tight. Then I also applied the nails.
I bought a slickplane, it came in handy. 
All the ribs in the right place, but they are not yet the right length. 
Pencil mark 1 inch from the edge of each rib to verify that a rib is deep enough in the hole on the gunwale during the steaming process. 
In order to be able to quickly saw a new rib to the correct length during steaming, if necessary, I note all lengths separately. 
Ready to steam.
Ready to stem (left image) , halfway (image above), and the final result (image right). 
A few pictures of making the bow and stern. In retrospect I would have made sure that the line of the oak plank would follow the line of the gunwales. But yes, afterwards, when the skin was already on, there was little that could be done about it. Better luck next time.
To bring the thread that puts the tension on the skin at a (more or less) fixed distance from the seam, I used a piece of cardboard (2.5” by 4”) to put the thread on the right pot through the fabric. 
When the fabric is wet, with color, it looks beautiful. When it dries, it becomes a lot lighter again, but when the Coelan paint is back on, the color pulls back fortunately. 
The deck is ready.
September 13, 2021
ha Berend
You got yourself a very beautiful kayak! Congrats,
Wim van Velzen
October 31, 2021
Thanks.
October 31, 2021
Hi Behrend,
congrats to the new boot. Looks great!
How much Colean paint did you need for the kayak? When I built my F1 I shortly contemplated to use it, but the price put me off. In the meantime I met a guy with a greenland kayak he built from Harveys book, which he had coated with Colean. Looked great, but I forgot to ask how much he needed.
Thanks,
Franz
October 31, 2021
I bought two cans of 700 ml each and one of 350 ml. That serves three layers on top of the kayak, and four on the bottom. I did not finish all of the Coelan, approximately 100 ml stayed in the can. It served the LPB I built before also, so probably it is enough for your F1 too, if it is not a lot bigger (more surface).
October 31, 2021
Manny thanks!
If it’s enough for the LPB it’s good for the F1 anyway. Would love to hear about the long term durability.
And sorry for the ‘h’ 😉
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